Point.fr: just seven months after taking over Ledoyen, July 1, 2014, you will find for the 2015 edition of the Michelin 3 star that you left behind when you leave the Meurice January 31 2013. What do they mean to you
Yannick Alleno : An even more intense happiness in 2007 at Le Meurice! I am this morning the happiest man in the world. These 3-star materialize the two years I spent at work like crazy to find a cooking philosophy that the Michelin award today. I’m so happy.
To have donned the apron boss chef at Ledoyen he released you?
Place the other side of the fence made me aware of many things. This is such responsibilities to direct a big boat like Ledoyen. What a pleasure to have created jobs by hiring 20 employees since my arrival in July 2014! I can guarantee you that I do not sleep every day, but I can promise you that when I get up every morning is infinite joy to finally be home, to find my stove, to welcome my guests almost as did my parents in their bistros and cafes tobacco in Ile-de-France. It’s worth all the gold in the world!
Have you questioned when you left it two years ago, Le Meurice?
I am a child of the school of “Yes, chef!” I was trained by six MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) who taught me to wonder the great traditional cuisine. I had the feeling early 2013 to have used everything I had learned. I considered that I had finished my range and I wanted to invent a new one. I decided to give its credentials to one of our pillars: the sauce. This is the word of French gastronomy, through which one can tell great stories on our plates. It is fully part of my identity, my signature. Without it, we could not bind, for example, a beef fillet with asparagus or oyster melon.
The sauce thus is fully part of your DNA …
I reinvented through the extractions that are to smuggle a product of ultra-pure juices: parsnips, celery, beet, Iberian ham, sole milk … In redacting the water contained in each food after just dove under temperature vacuum sometimes 48 hours at 70 degrees, I got the quintessence as a broth. I play, I compose, I add, I discovered the textures of tastes from unreleased assemblies under the terroir. Through salinity, minerality, fermentation, long finish, I feel closer to what the winemaker.
In Ledoyen, you also put much terroir Ile on the front of the plate …
This is a continuation of what I had started in 2006 at Le Meurice Paris with my menu, a wink to my suburban origins since I was born in Puteaux, Hauts-de-Seine. I am the initiator of agricultural reversion in Ile-de-France and Paris. I saved vegetables and fruits that were on the verge of disappearing because nobody wanted: Argenteuil asparagus, spinach Viroflay Pontoise cabbage, dandelion Montmagny, Fishing Montreuil, Montmorency cherry, white fig Versailles … With the Cervia (Regional Centre valuation and food agricultural innovation), we created a label called “From here cooked products here” with 100 referents leaders . It’s great to see the excitement generated by our movement. I dream that one day a wine is produced on the hillsides of Conflans-Sainte-Honorine, Yvelines.
The failure to be crowned the 2015 Michelin 3 stars in 1947, the White Horse restaurant in Courchevel, mitigates the party …
This is a huge disappointment. I did my best with my teams to win. I will do next year in 2016 to get them. I will not let anything!
No comments:
Post a Comment